Grafting is a way to grow a new fruit tree variety by joining a cutting (scionwood) to an existing tree or compatible rootstock. Unlike rooting a cutting, grafting allows you to use an established root system to support a different fruiting variety.
There are several ways to graft fruit trees. In the video below, we examine the results of four common methods: modified cleft grafting, bark grafting, whip and tongue grafting, and side grafting.
Watch: Four Fruit Tree Grafting Methods and Their Results
Jump to each grafting method:
- 00:07 – Modified Cleft Graft Results
- 01:40 – Bark Graft Results
- 04:50 – Whip and Tongue Graft Results
- 06:29 – Side Graft Results
What You'll Need
- Healthy, dormant scionwood from the variety you want to grow
- A compatible rootstock or established fruit tree
- A sharp, clean grafting knife
- Pruning shears or a small pruning saw
- Grafting tape or Parafilm
- Grafting wax or sealant when needed
- Plant labels to identify each variety
Most dormant-scion grafting is performed in late winter or spring. Bark grafting is usually done a little later, when the rootstock is actively growing and the bark separates easily from the wood.
The key to every graft is cambium contact. The cambium is the thin growing layer just beneath the bark. The cambium of the scion and rootstock must touch for the graft to heal successfully.
1. Modified Cleft Graft
Best for: Joining a relatively small scion to a rootstock or branch of similar or somewhat larger diameter.
- Cut the top of the rootstock or selected branch cleanly.
- Make a short vertical split down the center of the cut end.
- Cut the bottom of the scion into a long, narrow wedge.
- Insert the wedge into the split, aligning the cambium along at least one side.
- Wrap the union tightly with grafting tape and seal exposed cuts against drying.
Tip: If the rootstock is wider than the scion, position the scion toward one edge instead of centering it. This helps the cambium layers meet.
2. Bark Graft
Best for: Adding a smaller scion to a much larger branch or changing the variety on an established tree.
- Cut the selected rootstock branch back to a clean, smooth end.
- When the bark is slipping easily in spring, make a short vertical slit through the bark.
- Prepare the scion with a long, smooth, sloping cut at its base.
- Gently lift the bark and slide the cut surface of the scion beneath it, against the wood.
- Secure the scion and seal the graft, including the exposed end of the larger branch.
Tip: Bark grafts should be protected from wind while healing. Larger grafted branches may require staking or support as new shoots grow.
3. Whip and Tongue Graft
Best for: Joining scionwood and rootstock that are approximately the same diameter, often around pencil thickness.
- Make a long, smooth diagonal cut on both the scion and rootstock.
- Make a second, shallow cut into each diagonal surface to create a small tongue.
- Slide the two pieces together so their tongues interlock.
- Align the cambium layers along at least one side.
- Wrap the entire graft union securely to hold the pieces together and prevent drying.
Tip: Matching diameters make this method easier. The interlocking tongues help create a strong connection, but practicing the cuts on spare branches first is worthwhile.
4. Side Graft
Best for: Adding a new variety to the side of an existing rootstock or branch while initially retaining its upper growth.
- Select a smooth section on the side of the rootstock or branch.
- Make an angled cut into the side of the wood to form a narrow opening.
- Prepare the base of the scion with a tapered wedge that fits the opening.
- Insert the scion and align the cambium layers on at least one side.
- Wrap and seal the graft securely.
- After the graft establishes, gradually remove or reduce competing growth above it as appropriate for the method.
Tip: A side graft allows the original branch or rootstock to continue growing while the new scion establishes. Protect the young graft from wind and mechanical damage.
Caring for Your New Grafts
Regardless of which method you choose, proper aftercare improves your chances of success.
- Prevent drying: keep the graft union wrapped and seal exposed wood.
- Remove competing shoots: growth from the rootstock may compete with the grafted variety.
- Protect new growth: young grafts are easily damaged by strong wind or accidental contact.
- Check the wrapping: loosen or remove non-stretching tape before it constricts the growing stem.
- Be patient: budbreak is encouraging, but the graft must develop a strong union before it can support vigorous growth.
Always use a sharp grafting knife, keep your hands out of the cutting path, and work on stable, supported wood. Graft only between botanically compatible plants. Apple, pear, cherry, and plum scions are not universally interchangeable, and compatibility can vary even within related fruit groups.
Which Grafting Method Should You Choose?
| Method | Best Situation |
|---|---|
| Modified Cleft | Small rootstock or branch, similar or slightly larger than the scion |
| Bark | Larger established branches in spring |
| Whip and Tongue | Scion and rootstock of similar diameter |
| Side | Adding a variety to the side of an existing branch or stock |
Start Grafting Your Own Fruit Trees
Grafting is a practical way to grow additional fruit varieties without purchasing an entirely new tree. Whether you're grafting a young rootstock or adding new varieties to an established orchard, matching the right technique to the size of your scionwood and rootstock makes the process easier.
At Dingdong's Garden, we grow and harvest dormant scionwood from our fruit trees on Lopez Island, Washington.
Browse Fruit Tree Scionwood for Grafting
You can also review our Scionwood Specifications and Shipping Information before ordering.